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The following quoted paragraphs are the unedited, written words of a professional cheater. Although filled with overblown phrases and confused assertions, his statements unmistakably reveal his philosophy -- his justification for cheating:
Man is basically an aggressive creature. In spite of the high-sounding platitudes with which so-called 'leaders' have soothed mankind for so many generations, very often while manipulating and exploiting them for maximum profit, the simple truth is that it's going to take many eons of evolution to eradicate the instinct that provokes certain men to take advantage of others. The instinct may never be extinguished. In the meantime, there are two basic alternatives:
You can either try to escape the harsh realities of life by seeking spiritual solace in the here and now rather than the hereafter, thus detaching yourself from the inevitable grief and sorrows of human existence. You will also, however, detach yourself from the numerous pleasures and profits of the same existence. Anyone who wants absolute protection in any game, poker or otherwise, will only achieve it by refusing to play.
Or you can be a stark realist and accept man's folly and greed, and align yourself with those who decide to play for maximum enjoyment and profit. Whether or not you decide to exploit the flaws of others in the process is up to you. The term "cheating" is often inflicted on those individuals who refuse to abide by social rules which are very often rigid and repressive, deliberately stifling individual resourcefulness and imagination. Conscience is a social invention (in spite of the nonsense we're taught as infants), and it's necessary for the survival of society; without it chaos would be rampant. But, in the final analysis, if a man plays at all, he plays by his own rules or by the rules of others, with the choice of his life all too often made by others who dominate.
Your habitual style of playing poker reveals your habitual life-style, since it's only a miniature stage, which deceives many players; they think that by entering a sideshow they're escaping the main tent. This is self-deception on a grand scale. Nowhere does character ultimately display itself more clearly than in a man's poker game. Complainers will complain, even when they're winning heavily. Stoics will be philosophic and taciturn whether they win or lose. The rash and improvident are punished equally along with the timid. The bold are almost always the biggest winners, because nature favors the bold. Exploiters will milk every opportunity, creating their own if none exist, and losers will (and must, by their own unconscious preference) be victimized.
Whether you choose to be a victim or an opportunist is your decision. If a man develops his talents and potential, he is said to be exploiting himself, and he's viewed with admiration and acclaim for his achievements. If he exploits others, he's accused of being dishonest and immoral. The difference, you'll note, is in the label; the principle is the same.
The above rationalization for cheating not only expresses the philosophy for that particular cheater, but expresses the philosophy of most professional cheaters who retain their self-esteem by justifying their cheating. By positing their cheating as superior knowledge, they project themselves as superior to honest players. In fact, only by justifying their cheating can they develop the calmness and gall needed to cheat professionally. And not only do professional cheaters justify their cheating, but they base their self-esteem on cheating: they begin to crave cheating -- the more they cheat, the more superior they consider themselves.
Understanding the psychology as well as the philosophy of cheaters is helpful for beating them: In public or casino poker, many professional players eventually involve themselves in surreptitious cheating cliques. How and why do they involve themselves in such cliques? Imagine a lonely public-game player struggling against the house cut to crack the nut -- to become a full-time professional. He then suddenly discovers a friendly professional establishment with an ongoing cheating system -- an undetectable cheating system requiring no special skills and available for his immediate profit. Such a player, especially if he is of mediocre ability struggling to survive as a professional, will often embrace that establishment. He begins tacitly cooperating with the cheating cliques. He accepts their collusion as a trade tool required for playing competitive, professional poker.
As he gains advantages from those professionals and adopts their system, he becomes increasingly dependent on their collusion to survive. He loses his independence and becomes a stereotype, public-game professional. Indeed, with a sense of professional righteousness, he becomes a collusion cheater.
In a sense, all chronic cheaters become entrapped with similar physical and psychological dependencies on cheating. Moreover, professional cheaters learn to feel little or no conscious guilt about their dishonesty. And only the honest player knowledgeable about cheating can stop them.
What to do when you encounter a cheater depends on (1) the type of cheater and, (2) your objectives:
As explained in Chapter I, most traditional cheaters are losers who often lose more money because of their cheating. For that reason, a good player usually tries to keep such cheaters in the game as sources of income. But the continued presence of a cheater can cause suspicion or resentment among other players, possibly jeopardizing the game and future profits by causing valuable losers to quit.... If the cheater adversely affects your game or profits, you must stop his cheating. And if the cheater is a steady winner or a Neocheater, you must get him out of the game quickly and permanently.
You can usually eliminate a cheater or stop his cheating by using one of the nine methods in Table 1 on page 6. But you may instead want to profit from his cheating. To do that, follow John Finn's example of staying one step ahead of the cheater as John did in Anecdote A and D of Chapter I. That approach, however, requires much effort. An easier way to profit from cheaters is through white-hat Neocheating as described below.
Neocheating used to benefit all honest players is called white-hat Neocheating. For example, you can benefit honest players by bankrupting cheaters with Neocheating.
By bankrupting the cheater, you rid the game of a menace to benefit the other players. While you can win extra money directly from the cheater with Neocheating, a prerequisite of white-hat Neocheating is that no player (except the cheater) lose money because of the cheating.[ 29 ]
You can also benefit the other players with white-hat Neocheating by arranging for the cheater to lose directly to the other players, especially to the cheater's biggest victims and the game's weakest players (Robin Hood cheating). With no one realizing what you are doing, you can use white-hat Neocheating to assume a God-like role with the responsibility of keeping the game honest while temporarily helping the cheater's victims and weak players.[ 30 ] [ 30 ]
Assume, for instance, you detect a player marking cards. You could use one of the several noncheating approaches listed on page 6 to stop his cheating or to break him. But why not bankrupt him with white-hat Neocheating? By breaking that cheater, everyone else not only becomes safe from his cheating, but benefits from his losses.
Because you attack only the cheaters and especially when you arrange for other players to win, white-hat Neocheating need not be as subtle as dishonest or black-hat Neocheating. For that reason, white-hat Neocheating is especially effective for beating Neocheaters. Moreover, out of fear of having their own actions revealed, cheaters cannot effectively defend themselves against white-hat cheating. And few would dare accuse someone of cheating them.
Through white-hat Neocheating, you can fearlessly arrange powerful hands such as four aces to a loser and four queens to the cheater to drain that cheater. And if you are not the winner of those big hands, no one would suspect anything more than coincidence. In addition, most players root for losers and weak players to win big hands and are glad when they do because extra money in the hands of losers and weak players is easier to win.
By now you know the techniques of Neocheating. But that knowledge alone does not assure complete protection. You must also know what actions to take against cheaters. Directly detecting a properly executed blind shuffle, false riffle, or discard stack is essentially impossible, even if you can flawlessly execute those maneuvers yourself. In addition, as explained in the next chapter, the Neocheater selectively uses only a fraction of his power, making him even more difficult to detect. And unlike those cheaters using marked cards, shiners, strippers, cold decks, holdouts, punches, and daubs in gaffed games, the Neocheater leaves no direct evidence of cheating. The Neocheater provides nothing tangible -- nothing that can be identified or proven.
Alert and knowledgeable players, however, can sense a Neocheater through the illogical playing and betting patterns inherent in any cheating. And usually that is the only way to detect or, more precisely, to sense the Neocheater. Even then, no one can actually prove his cheating. Still, with (1) knowledge of Neocheating and (2) knowing what defensive action to take against cheaters, anyone can protect himself against all cheating, including Neocheating. Those defensive actions could range from white-hat Neocheating to leaving the game.
As evident from the verbatim quote at the beginning of this chapter, the professional cheater feels no guilt or sympathy for his victims. In fact, he usually feels contempt for them. And most Neocheaters genuinely believe that they are rightfully exercising superior knowledge over their opponents. But this book has shown how to recognize, nullify, and even beat those Neocheaters. Other defenses and counterattacks that are effective against both cheaters and Neocheaters are listed below:
If you practiced an hour or so cutting high cards as described in Chapter II, you can now cut aces at will. But if you merely read that chapter without actually trying the technique, you will still understand the nature of culling and crimping enough to sense and counter any cheating when cutting high cards for money:
(1) Insist on cutting your card first if you suspect Neocheating--but do not insist on cutting first until after the cheater has shuffled and placed the deck on the table. Indeed, he will probably inquire about your choice while shuffling in order to determine whether to crimp a high card for himself if he cuts first -- or a low card for you at the approximate center (a high card for himself very low in the deck) if you cut first. Tell him he can cut first, but change your mind once he has placed the deck on the table.
(2) If he refuses to let you cut first, you can assume he has crimped himself a high card. In that case, simply refuse to cut. But if he agrees to let you cut first, which he usually will do to avoid suspicion, run your thumb or fingertips lightly from the bottom of the deck up until you locate the crimp. Then cut the high card he had crimped for himself to win the bet.
That counterattack can generally be used only once against the same cheater. If the bet was large enough to break the cheater, the action is over anyway. But if he wants another cut, he will probably switch tactics and crimp a low card near the center of the deck for you to hit, whether you cut first or last. When the cards are on the table ready for cutting, suddenly insist on cutting for low card (i.e., the lowest card wins). If he refuses, simply avoid cutting at the crimp . . . or refuse to cut altogether.
(3) If the Neocheater (or any cheater) does not ask who will cut first while preparing the cards for cutting, he then is probably crimping a high card for himself very low or very high in the deck and assuming you will not cut that low or high. Or, he is crimping a low card near the center of the deck and assuming that you will cut at the crimp. In any case, be sure that you cut first. Then before cutting, slowly and lightly run your thumb or fingertips up the side of the deck to locate the crimp. If the crimp is very low or very high, you will probably get a high card by cutting at that crimp. If the crimp is near the center of the deck, move past that crimp to avoid cutting a low card.
(4) You also have other options to nullify or beat the Neocheater when cutting high cards:
(a) Riffle-shuffle the deck yourself and then white-hat Neocheat the cheater. You can use a foolproof Neocheating ploy by crimping a low card with a high card positioned directly behind that low card. Then offer your opponent the cut. If he is unsuspecting of your crimp, he may simply cut that low card at the crimp to lose. If he misses the crimp or is suspicious and purposely avoids your crimp, you can put your fingertips on the crimp during your cut, but leave the low card behind to cut the high card and win.
(b) Refuse to cut with him at all -- especially if you suspect him of using the foolproof Neocheating ploy described above.
Blind shuffling, false riffling, false cutting, and crimping are key maneuvers for cheating, but by themselves they do not constitute cheating. They are covers -- the tools and props for cheating maneuvers such as stacking. Three basic ways, therefore, exist to detect cheating: (1) detect the "covers" of cheating: blind shuffling, false riffling, false cutting, crimping. Those covers always indicate previous cheating moves, even if no cheating move can be detected; (2) detect or sense the cheating itself: stacking, peeking, memorizing opponents' hole cards, culling, collusion; and (3) detect or sense the results of cheating by observing illogical or omniscient betting and playing patterns that could occur only by gaining unnatural advantages through cheating as described in Chapter I.
Blind shuffling properly done is invisible and undetectable. But with alertness and with the right knowledge, cheating can be sensed without ever seeing an illegal move. Still, blind shuffling ineptly or awkwardly done is detectable by simply observing the portion of the deck that never gets shuffled. Any player, however, unfamiliar with the mechanics of blind shuffling will not suspect, much less detect, even a clumsy blind shuffler.
If a cheater is blind shuffling, he has already stacked the deck or perhaps has memorized everyone's hole cards without stacking. If he is using Neocheating techniques, you will probably never see his stacking. Nevertheless, you can indirectly sense the results of his stacking or memorizing hole cards by observing omniscient betting patterns that would be possible only if that player had stacked the deck or knew everyone's hole cards. Once his cheating moves are detected by, for example, the methods listed in Chapters III and IV, or are sensed as described in Chapter I, you can then use the defenses and counterattacks listed on the next page to protect yourself or beat the cheater.
False riffling can often be spotted if you are looking for it, except for the Las Vegas variation during which the deck is covered with both hands while riffling (as described in Chapter IV). Such false riffling cannot be detected with certainty, only suspected.
Spotting or sensing a false cut depends on the cut used. The standard, three-block false cut described in Chapter IV and its more elaborate four-block false variation described in Chapter VI can be detected, or at least suspected, once you know their basic movements. The shifting block cut in which small blocks of cards are moved rapidly from top to bottom (also described in Chapter VI) is a fairly common, legitimate cutting procedure. Still, be alert for cheating whenever a player uses such a cut. And finally, the cut used to remove one card from the top of the deck is hard to detect when done rapidly, but shifting that single card often makes a recognizable snapping sound.
Any time you can see an obvious crimp, you are playing against a careless or inept cheater (or an oafish player who innocently but brutely bends the deck when shuffling). An intended crimp always indicates a previous cheating maneuver, usually stacking. On suspecting a crimp, you can defend yourself by taking one of the following steps:
(1) After the deck has been cut by the player on the dealer's right, request another cut whether you suspect the dealer of having an agent next to him or not.
(2) If you are sitting on the dealer's right, purposely hit his crimp but leave one card behind when you cut. Or cut at the crimp and give the deck an additional rapid cut to remove only the top card as described on pages 99-102. Those counterattack maneuvers will give you the dealer's stacked hand. And after the first or second time the cheater deals you his hand, he will not only realize that you know about his cheating, but that you are counterattacking him.
(3) If you are not sitting on the cheater's right, ask (or demand) to shuffle the deck after the cut. Such a move, however, is an indirect accusation of the dealer. But if you can get the deck and have mastered the basic Neocheating maneuvers, give the deck a quick blind shuffle. When you reach your gap, simply run off, one by one, the number of cards equal to the number of players clockwise from you to the dealer. For example, if you are the third player from the dealer's right, run off three cards. Then toss the rest of the deck on top of those cards, execute a false cut, and hand the deck back ready for dealing. The cheater will then deal you the hand he had stacked for himself.
(4) Maneuver yourself into the seat to the right of the cheater. You can then collect his stacked hands by using the one-card-removal cut after hitting his crimp. Or, of course, you can simply destroy his stacks with your cuts. With complaints about "luck" or other excuses, you can often exchange seats to position yourself on the cheater's right -- unless that seat is held by his agent or collusion partner.
Be careful on repeating counterattacks that involve, for example, the one-card-removal cut. An alert cheater can set you up for a big loss by stacking two powerful hands and then placing an extra card at the crimp. Upon removing that extra card, you will be setting yourself up to receive, for example, four jacks to another player's four aces.
Knowing about Neocheating lets you quickly learn effective discard-stacking techniques. But that knowledge will not make you infallible in detecting another discard-stacker, especially a Neocheater. Stacking hands with discards can be done as fast as the cards can be scooped up. The moves will appear completely natural.
When the cheater gathers face-up cards, especially in stud poker, you can often predict the hand or hands being stacked by seeing the bottom face-up card of each scoop. But as explained in Chapter III, Neocheaters will alter their scooping motions so the bottom face-up card of each scoop will not be one of the stacked cards. And discard-stackers using both hands can grab cards and turn them face down so fast that the scooped cards appear only as blurs and are impossible to follow. Moreover, if discard stacking is done in segments before the betting rounds are complete, you can at best only suspect but can never be certain that the dealer is stacking.
Nevertheless, you can detect or sense all such discard stacking by using the methods described on pages 52-53 in Chapter III. You can then counter the stacking by taking one of the four steps listed on page 138.
The undercut stack done by amateurs is easy to spot. But when done very rapidly and followed by a number of blind shuffles, false riffles and false cuts, the undercut is hard to follow. In any case, the review on page 80 in Chapter V shows how to detect the undercut. As with all stacking techniques, however, blind shuffling and false riffling are used as effective covers once the deck is stacked.
Professional cheaters generally reserve the undercut for naive company or when setting up two hands for a killing as described on pages 76-79 in Chapter V. Defenses and counterattacks against undercut stacking involve the same techniques listed on page 138 for all stacking techniques.
The tipoff for overhand stacking is the dealer pulling cards one by one rapidly off the deck during the shuffle and subsequently sliding those same cards back on top of the deck followed by a blind shuffle. But again, the maneuvers can be done so fast you must be alert to detect overhand stacking. You must know exactly what moves to look for -- such as the moves listed on page 86.
Riffle stacking is essentially impossible to detect when done properly, especially when done with the Las Vegas variation. If you suspect expert riffle stacking, notice if the dealer wins too consistently when he deals or if his betting seems illogical or too omniscient (as explained in Chapter I). Indeed, because of its invisibility, the riffle stack is favored by many Neocheaters. Review pages 90, 92, 94, and 96 in Chapter V and page 138 in this chapter for detecting and defending against the riffle stack and other stacking variations.
Technically, the pull-through is a false riffle, not a stack. But the pull-through always indicates a stack, often a discard stack. The tipoff for the pull-through occurs when the dealer cuts the deck into approximate halves for each riffle shuffle and then angles those halves as he riffles them together.
Some professional cheaters use nothing more than discard stacking and a pull-through to operate profitably. That routine is also very effective for bridge. For defending against the pull-through, follow the procedures listed on page 138.
The anecdotes in Chapter I show how an alert player who understands cheating can soundly beat most collusion cheaters once he detects them. Still, even knowledgeable and alert players can be helpless against dealer-partner Neocheating collusion as revealed in Chapter I and further described in the next chapter.[ 31 ]
Recourses against such "unbeatable" Neocheating include simply getting out of the game as John Finn did in anecdote B of Chapter I; not playing in games suspect of dealer-partner Neocheating as John Finn did in anecdote F of Chapter I; making a secret arrangement with the dealer to trap his original collusion partner in a bankrupting loss; or, in private games, using white-hat Neocheating to drive colluding partners from the game.
In private games in which you deal, however, you can effectively counterattack even Neocheaters in dealer-partner collusion with white-hat Neocheating. Or you can drive those Neocheaters from your game with still other methods described later in this chapter and in the next chapter.
You can easily detect inept or careless peekers by simply noticing the awkward manner or unnatural angle in which they hold the deck when peeking (or while waiting to peek between dealing moves). But peeking by a professional or a Neocheater can be impossible to spot.
The effective peeker not only synchronizes his movements, but he acts with his body as well as with his face. His full attention, for example, focuses on the actions performed by his right hand as he peeks at a card in the deck resting in his left hand. Such misdirection is magnetically distracting as he rivets his entire body -- his neck, arms, shoulders, spine -- in the direction of his right hand. But his eyes will flick briefly to peek at a card in his left hand. ... For the amount of practice invested, peeking is one of the safest and most profitable cheating ruses.
If you can spot someone peeking, he is neither an expert nor a Neocheater. Effective responses on detecting or sensing a peeker include: (1) immediately demand a cut the moment you sense a peek. If necessary, you can announce as the reason for cutting is, for example, that the top card was flashed, and (2) politely or rudely (whatever the situation calls for) insist that the deck stay on the table whenever cards are not actually being dealt. For other detection and defense methods against peeking, see page 117 in Chapter VII.
When the peeker realizes someone suspects him of cheating, he usually stops peeking. If he persists, simply refuse to ante whenever he deals. Repeated refusals will not only protect you, but should soon stop his peeking.
In gin rummy, if you suspect someone of peeking, spread the deck slightly and carefully watch him draw his cards. With the deck slightly spread, you can more easily notice movement of the spread cards if anyone peeks at the second or any other card.
If you are playing against a consistent winner, he may be a complete Neocheater (as defined in the next chapter). If so, he will execute such mild, smart cheating -- just enough to give him unbeatable long-range advantages -- that you may never detect or even suspect him of cheating. In fact, you may never know for sure if he is a Neocheater or simply a good player.[ 32 ]
Regardless, you need not know if he is a cheater or simply a good player to get rid of him -- you need only to know that he will be a steady winner, thus a financial liability. In fact, the defense against the unbeatable Neocheater is the same as the defense against the unbeatable good player: get him out of your game before he drains your opponents of their money -- money that you could win.
The following anecdote is a final defense against both the Neocheater and the good or Advanced-Concept player. The anecdote was paraphrased from Wallace's "Advanced Concepts of Poker" and describes John Finn's encounter with a player who may have been either a Neocheater or a good player, but a certain winner in either case.
In one of his private games several years ago, John Finn encountered what may have been a Neocheater. At that time, however, Neocheating had not been identified. But while John Finn did not know about Neocheating, he knew that a particular player -- a newcomer to the game -- would be a consistent winner who could steadily drain money from the game. John, therefore, realized that the new player would be a financial liability and wanted him out of the game promptly and permanently:
Throughout the evening, Boris Klien played tightly, but strangely loosened up on his deal. And when he dealt, he won about twice as often as he would when other players dealt. Moreover, he was the game's biggest winner -- up nearly five-hundred dollars. He then engaged John Finn in a lowball hand. The pot was large. By the last bet, only Boris and John remained. Boris turned his cards face up and declared his hand. John said nothing, so Boris reached for the pot.
"Keep your hands off my money," John snapped.
"Uh? What do ya mean?" Boris asked. "I won, didn't I?"
John snorted, turned his winning hand face up on the table, and snatched the pot from under Boris' stiffened fingers.
"Why didn't you declare your hand?" Boris complained.
"This is a poker game, buddy boy," John growled out of the twisted corner of his mouth. "Cards speak for themselves, remember?"
"I'm getting a bad time," Boris mumbled.
"Listen," John said shaking his finger close to Boris' face, "No one made you play. If you don't like our game . . . get out!"
"No, don't leave!" a big loser cried. "You're winning all our money."
"I started out losing three hundred," Boris said, "I'm still stuck a hundred."
"Liar!" John shouted. "You're up over four-hundred bucks!"
"This is my last round," Boris said. "I've . . ."
"The bore's even a hit-and-run artist!" John yelled while slapping his hand on the table. "Plan on this being your last round . . . permanently!"
Boris frowned and glanced toward the door. John had been riding Boris that way all evening. Boris did not like his treatment. But he was still the big winner.
"Seven-card stud, high-low with qualifiers and one twist," John announced as he dealt. "Trips-eight,"[ 33 ] he added in a whispering voice.
After the sixth card, John raised on his low hand and drove out the other low hands. By the last card, only John and Boris remained. He shrugged and called John's final $30 bet.
"Don't know why you wasted our time betting," he said showing his two pair. "We split the pot. Obviously you're low and I'm high."
"Look at that hand!" John hooted while pointing at Boris' cards. "The sucker calls all my big bets and doesn't even qualify for high. I get the whole pot!"
"What do ya mean I don't qualify?" Boris sputtered. "I got two pair."
"Three of a kind qualifies for high, you creep," John said shoving Boris' cards into the deck.
"Trips for qualifiers!" Boris cried. "They've been two pair all night."
"I announced trips-eight," John said laughing. "Clean your ears, clod."
"I heard him announce it," one of the players said weakly.
"Yeah? . . . Well, then it'd be impossible for me to call," Boris said reaching for the pot. "I'm taking back my last bet
"It stays in the pot," John said slapping his hand on the money. "You make a stupid play, buster, you pay for it."
"I've had enough," Boris said getting up to leave.
"You're winning big," a losing player whined. "Sit down and play awhile."
"Let the rock go," John said. "We'll play longer without him bothering us." Then turning to Boris, John made a sharp hitchhiking motion toward the door. "So long, sucker, hope we never see you again."
"I won't be back," Boris huffed.
"Good!" John yelled. Boris grabbed his coat and left, slamming the door. . . . John was somewhat surprised at how little harassment was needed to drive Boris from a game in which he could have won a fortune.
The above anecdote describes an overtly harsh defense against good players who are steady winners. That approach is even more effective for getting rid of Neocheaters. The Neocheater is basically lazy and works entirely by the policy of easy money through smart but easy cheating. Thus if you make his job difficult or make him work hard for his money, he will quickly leave for an easier game. The good player, on the other hand, being guilt free and willing to work harder, will fight more tenaciously for his rights in a game. He cannot be driven from a game as easily as a Neocheater.
In a private game, the alert player can eventually determine if a consistent winner is a Neocheater rather than a good player by detecting illogical playing and betting actions that win too consistently. In other words, a Neocheater wins too consistently-- his quality of cardplaying is not commensurate with his frequency and amount of winnings. A good player, however, can legitimately beat cheaters even Neocheaters by knowing their moves and staying one step ahead of them. For example, against a cheater, the good player can--
( 1 ) save money by quickly folding against the cheater's winning hands made more readable by his cheating.
(2) lure the cheater into making expensive bluffs and double bluffs.
(3) use the cheater's aggressive but readable bluffs to drive out the players with better hands. With the other players out, the good player can then simply call the cheater's bluff or, when necessary, double bluff the cheater with a final raise.
A powerful counterattack weapon against cheaters and Neocheaters is white-hat Neocheating (honest cheating). The white-hat approach ranges from directly wiping out cheaters to neutralizing the Neocheater's advantages and then winning simply by playing better poker when the honest players deal.
The Neocheater, by nature, is lazy and relies on his cheating to win. If you neutralize his cheating advantage, then, in a sense, you make the game "honest" again, allowing the better players to win all the money over the long term.
A white-hat Neocheater can quickly drain cheaters including Neocheaters with big-hand traps that dishonest or black-hat Neocheaters would rarely if ever dare attempt. The white-hat Neocheater does not always win for himself when he cheats. And he eliminates suspicion when he arranges for the cheater's victims or big losers to beat the cheaters (Robin Hood cheating). So even if the white-hat Neocheater were discovered, he would be hailed by everyone, except the cheater, as a hero.
As you counterattack, however, the Neocheater may turn on you with all his power and cunning. Still, by being aware of his techniques, he cannot really harm you. And you can always avoid his cheating by simply not anteing during his deal. In any case, the Neocheater will usually give up and quit the game on realizing he has been discovered -- especially on realizing he is being beaten by white-hat Neocheating. ... The black-hat (dishonest) Neocheater normally quits easily because he can usually find safer and easier games to drain.
Someday, electronic cards will eliminate most cheating and Neocheating. Players will hold small devices showing images of their electronically shuffled and dealt cards transmitted from a tabletop micro computer. Without physical cards for manipulation, essentially all cheating will disappear (except for collusion signals, which can be easily detected and countered). ... Moreover, electronic cards will accelerate the action, remove everyone's fear of cheating, and lower the costs of public and casino games by eliminating the dealer and automating the house collection.
The advantages of electronic cards will overwhelm any nostalgic desire to physically handle cards as low-cost, tamper-proof devices begin replacing cards and dealers. And further in the future, electronic checkbook betting will reduce the need for physical cash (also reduce armed robberies of high-stake games).
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[ 29 ] Neocheating is the best way to white-hat cheat. Classical or traditional cheating techniques could be used to beat cheaters, but those techniques require too much skill, effort, gall, or risk to be practical, especially since easier and safer Neocheating as well as noncheating methods (such as listed on page 6) are available to stop cheaters.
[ 30 ] After arranging for weak players to bankrupt the cheater through white-hat Neocheating, the good player can then proceed without cheating to win all the money from those weak players
[ 31 ] See Appendix B for information about efforts to find an effective way to counter and defeat "unbeatable " dealer-collusion Neocheating
[ 32 ] Even if a Neocheater's attack is so subtle you can never defect his cheating, his playing will still be distorted by his cheating. If constantly alert to his performance versus his quality and style of play, you can sense if he is cheating by illogical and inconsistent betting patterns that would result only if he were omniscient or had gained unnatural advantages through Neocheating. Still, you can never accuse him because you can never prove his cheating - he leaves no trace or evidence of cheating
[ 33 ] Trips-eight means that three of a kind or better are needed to win for high, and an eight low or lower is needed to win for low.
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